Internal Combustion

Internal Combustion Engines are basically any device which uses the explosive combustion of fuel to push a piston within a cylinder. Examples of internal combustion fuels include:

  1. Petrol/Gasoline
  2. Diesel
  3. Kerosene
  4. Aviation Gas (AVGAS)

In this section of Steam & Engine you will find both details on the processes and engines, but examples of the usage of those engines.

Internal Combustion Engines are basically any device which uses the explosive combustion of fuel to push a piston within a cylinder. Examples of internal combustion fuels include:

  1. Petrol/Gasoline
  2. Diesel
  3. Kerosene
  4. Aviation Gas (AVGAS)

In this section of Steam & Engine you will find both details on the processes and engines, but examples of the usage of those engines.

Remember to also check the Registrars page (menu item at left) and the Manual Exchange (menu item at left) for more information. If you have an engine it can be to your advantage to register it with a registrar in order to find other people who also have your engine type/style/brand. It can also help out if your engine is ever stolen.

Humphrey Pumps
by P.S. Towne of QVEA EDGE&TA BR 5 Quinebaug Valley Engineers Association)

The Humphrey Pump, was invented by Mr. H.A. Humphrey, eminent Gas Engineer and Chemist. Born in London in 1868 and educated at Finsbury Technical College and the Central Institution of the City Guilds, Kensington, England, he died in 1951 at Cape Province, South Africa. His pump is an internal combustion pump in which the force exerted by the explosion of a mixture of flammable gas and air acts directly on the surface of the water, forcing it to an elevated position.…

Read more: Humphrey Pumps

Submitted by Glenn Wilson This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
Ok - I have an engine very much like Tilley - it is a 1/2 breed
15HP natural gas two cycle that has been factory converted from
a steam engine to a two cycle natural gas engine that I run on
propane. The cylinder and main casting of the engine say
"Manwaring & Havens" & "Sheffield". I assume made in Sheffield, PA.

I'm sure there are lots of ways to run it but I found
what works for me is to burn the hot tube flame so the 6" stainless
steel hot tube (purchased from John Burns) is entirely red.
Connect an accumulator in front of the gas/air mixture input made
of 4" pipe about 4 feet long fed from a regulator set to about
2PSI. In between the accumulator and the engine is a 3/8" DIAMOND
valve. This is Much more controllable than a larger size!
The head itself has one threaded connection that sticks
straight out as if to hold a spark plug. In this hole, Is a short
nipple that sticks out, a tee with vertical hot tube and another
nipple with a ball valve that opens to the air.

Then, to start the engine, you open the valve to the atmosphere,
close the diamond valve and turn the engine over at least twice.
More times don't hurt anything. Leave the piston at BDC. Close
the air valve, open the gas valve to exactly 1/8. Put your foot
up on a spoke and grab the top of the one flywheel (there is a
clutch on the other side - only one steam engine flywheel) and
give it a bit of a turn back into compression. As soon as it fires,
and it will 90% of the time with this method, you have to immediately
open the gas valve ever so little until it fires again. Then keep
your hand on the gas valve and do tiny tiny adjustments until the
engine is running nice and comes up to temperature.

This engine runs like a four stroke when unloaded - i.e., ever other
compression stroke is only a small explosion and every other is a
good hard hit. If you crack the gas valve open farther, it will
hit hit hit but run too fast. I haven't had it loaded it but
suspect if it had a belt load on it, you could give it more gas
and it would hit hard every time.

I am writing this at 2am and reserve the right to change the
the 1) length of the stainless steel pipe, 2) the gas pressure in
the accumulator, and 3) the setting on the diamond valve because
I haven't run the engine since last fall but I believe what I have
written above is true and correct.

I LOVE this engine bought off eBay, sight unseen, for $850 on my
way to my first Portland show ever in the summer of 2001. The
engine was 4 hours west. The show was another 7 hours farther west.

Read more: 1/2 breed 15HP Natural Gas two cycle (ex steam engine)

Submitted by Rick Strobel This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.">This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Preflight/Lube/Gas-Up
Review emergency shutdown proceedures in my head.
Open main fuel valve.
Push in on the movable igniter contact several times..This "scrubs" the
contacts.
Open mixer needle valve one quarter turn, close choke (This is for the old
mixer w/air shutter).
Open cc oiler, adjust drip rate. I've got mine dripping once every ten
seconds.  New rings.
Postion spark advance on Webster bracket to the right hand position.(START)
Pull thru several times until mixer is flooded, close mixer needle valve.
Pull thru until engine hits once, quickly open air shutter (just a little)
and needle valve 1/4 turn.
If it hits the second time, you will find yourself smiling.
Move spark advance to the left (run) position.
Adjust air/fuel mixture until exhaust is clear and running nicely..lot's of
miss.
After I'm happy that it's running nice..I then add water to the hopper.

Preheating the mixer/head and using hot water in the hopper is permitted if
you weigh in excess of 250 lbs. or you're "Packin'."  This really helps to
vaporize the fuel.

To Stop..shut off fuel. Now I don't drain the hopper until water temp. cools
down to approx. ambient.  Just a personal thing as I fear hot spots might
develop in head, cyl. piston....open to discusssion.

Go out next day and wipe up the oily mess...forgot to turn that damn oiler
off again:-)

Damn, this is FUN!!

Read more: 2 1/4 hp. Galloway (Early Style..oiler behind hopper)

Submitted by Curt Holland This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
  1. Fill fuel tank.
  2. Turn side shaft so that fuel pump cam is up. (so fuel pump primer can be pumped)
  3. Open fuel injector needle valve 1 turn.
  4. Manually pump fuel pump to prime until you can hear
  5. 3 or 4 time good squirts go in the intake chamber.
  6. Open priming valve.
  7. Turn flywheels in the running direction through compression to TDC, letting the magneto trip.
  8. While slowly turning the flywheels down the power stoke, add fuel in the priming cup. Add LOTS of fuel (several priming cup fulls) as it is hard to start an Abby!
  9. You should now be about half way down the power stroke.
  10. Close the priming valve.
  11. With vigour turn the flywheels the running direction, through the remaining power stroke, the exhaust stroke, the next intake stroke, all while gaining momentum. It should easily go through the next compression stroke and fire.
  12. Continue pulling through until it fires, usually 2 to 4 times through.
  13. Adjust the fuel injector needle valve for proper operation as it warms up. Mine runs a 1/4 turn open.

Read more: Abenaque (6HP) hit and miss with magneto

Submitted by William J. Pfeiffer Jr., Sharon A. Cook,  Freckles the gutless wonderdog & Sugar the tongued terror This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.">This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Flippin the flywheels style.

  1. Check all the grease cups and fill as needed.
  2. Check the oiler and fill as needed.
  3. Using an oil can, lube the rocker arm, exhaust and intake valves, cam follower, pushrod slides, bevel gear for magneto, ignitor, and then a small amount on the skirt of the piston.
  4. Insure there is enough fuel in the tank by adding some.
  5. Check the water level in the hopper and add as needed.
  6. Pour a small amount of gasoline onto a nice terrycloth rag.
  7. Wrap rag around the air holes of the mixer.
  8. Set fuel mixer at 1 1/2 turns out from closed.
  9. Hook wire up to the ignitor. (I never leave the wire connected when not running)
  10. Turn the flywheels until I feel compression starting to build.
  11. Place my hands on the rim of the flywheels, making sure that my thumbs are not hooked around the flywheel but rather are also on the rim of the flywheel.
  12. Place one foot onto the edge of the cart.
  13. Give a good sharp pull. Repeat from 11 as required.
  14. Remove rag and sit down to listen to the stack music.…

Read more: Associated